Chris Connor reviews the fourth episode of The New Look…
The New Look’s fourth episode sees events move post-war as France has been liberated. The scars of the war linger for all to see with Coco Chanel implicated by her involvement with the Nazis during the war and sought out by the new authorities. Christian Dior meanwhile remains scarred by what may have befallen his sister. We know Catherine survived incarceration but this looks set to be addressed further down the line.
While the mood in Paris is celebratory, the mood of the fashion designers at the shows core couldn’t be more downbeat. Again the central cast does a fine job of reflecting the lasting effects of the war on them. Ben Mendelsohn is a quiet, restrained Dior struggling to pour himself into his work but eventually going on to make some of his best-loved creations. Binoche meanwhile captures Coco’s angst and fight to survive this now unoccupied Paris.
One of the core themes explored here is the move to design post-war with an exclusive collective of some of France’s premium designers for the Theatre De La Mode exhibition at The Louvre, which was seen by more than 100,000 people. The exhibit featured the likes of Balenciaga, and Lelong, with Dior’s dresses receiving the most praise.
It is perhaps frustrating that the show to date has felt more like a soap opera and not focused on the work of some of the most recognisable names in fashion. The information that closes the episode on the exhibition is enlightening and it might have been good to see more of its creation rather than skirting the events that led up to it.
As with the three-episode premiere some elements impress, from the period detail and production design and the quality of the cast, however, some of the story choices and rushing of key events feel counterproductive. For such an important show, it is relegated to more of an afterthought. With the war now in the past it will be interesting to see if there is a shift in focus to the fashion houses and their work, something the show is crying out for. Audiences will be coming to see some recognisable works brought to life, rather than a soap opera.
Chris Connor
