Chris Connor reviews the eighth episode of The New Look…
The New Look ups the ante in its eighth episode with a scene stealing guest role for Glenn Close as legendary Harper’s Bazaar Editor Carmel Snow. Her involvement in this episode, seeking out an icon to define Parisian fashion post-war, reminds us of the towering achievements of the characters in this show and their bitter rivalries. She passes from Coco Chanel in Switzerland via Balenciaga, another welcome guest star in Nuno Lopes; before coming to the house of Dior. Dior is perhaps missing his one defining design.
While the show has had its high points, the greater emphasis on the fashion designs of the houses here pays dividends with a tighter focus and something fashion fans will come flocking to the show for. Coco is trying desperately to get her new Chanel No. 1 into the world while coming across old flame Spatz (Claes Bang), who may or may not be an ally.
We get some added Dior family dynamics as he visits his unwell brother, promising the pair will go and visit his father and Catherine for lunch. Christian is for the most part fixated on his work and finding the elusive perfect design.
The Harper’s Bazaar subplot adds an extra layer of tension for all the fashion figures involved and is perhaps something the show could have utilised sooner. We get a sense of Carmel as this almost spectral-like figure, with her visit a blessing or curse for those involved. Close captures her doggedness and determination to get a truly innovative vision for post-war Parisian Couture. It is a shame it is such a small role in the wider context of the show as she instantly feels like one of its strongest elements.
This is one of The New Look’s stronger episodes, while still suffering from some overly melodramatic moments the call backs to the earlier episodes with Spatz and the character’s growth are welcome while the mini skirmishes around who will feature in Harpers Bazaar and have their future paved in gold, make for some of the most riveting moments in the show. Hopefully the show’s final two episodes can set up the second season to build on these elements.
Chris Connor
Originally published March 20, 2024. Updated March 21, 2024.
